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  1. #16
    Strange name, ain't it? NattyBumppo's Avatar
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    JGV....holy moly! I remember the first time you posted that pic. No, my truck was nowhere near that. It was more the faint, hard to see buffer marks that typically were only visible at odd angles in direct sunlight or under flouro lighting at an angle. Like I said, got it `bout 95% and with some filling can get it 99%.

    Could I continue to hammer away and get the rest...probably but I don`t care to abrade away the rest of my clear coat. I`ll be keeping this truck for at least another 5 years.

    Also another good point re: marring being in the wax or protective layer. More than a few times I`ve freaked over what I thought was a new scratch or swirl but a QD wipe revealed it to be in the wax layer. Not uncommon I guess.

    BTW JGV...CONGRATS on the new addition!!!!!!!!
    Natty
    ------------------------------------------------
    "Sorry Miss, I just decided I don`t do mini-vans"

  2. #17

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    Angry

    Today, i tried again still with the 5937 to remove swirls from my girlfriend`s ride........all i can say is BUMMER! I upped the speed to about 1800 rpm, applied a wee more pressure, moved the buffer slower, but still it didnt make any difference, and the area where it is a pain to remove them seems to be on door panels................now i either have to up a notch in abrasive or in pad, but the 3M compounding pad is sooo rough to the touch, im a bit afraid to put it to her paint, even though her car is test one.

    I must have a lot of patience :beat

  3. #18

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    by the way, im using a rotary, not a DA

  4. #19
    The Rainmaker
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    Chip:
    Keep a few things in mind.
    1. You are removing paint.
    2. A rotary can remove lots of paint very quickly.
    3. When you have removed quite a lot of paint, it becomes a very fine line between shiny paint and no paint.

    Don`t ask me how I know.:doh

    Charles

  5. #20

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    Talking Charles

    the machine glaze 5937 prolly doesnt remove a lot of paint, cause after each pass i didnt notice any diff...............but i agree with you about the rotary been a tool not to be taken lightly, but it also depends on the product and the pad one use......as to me i NEVER use wool pads.

    All the best :beer

  6. #21
    I'm here! jgv's Avatar
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    Re: Charles

    Originally posted by chip douglas
    as to me i NEVER use wool pads.

    Neither did I, ever.
    Portuguese details detalhe.net

  7. #22

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    jgv

    jgv, do you also use 3M`s product like the machine glaze 5937 ? If so, what can you tell me about it ?


    thanks

  8. #23
    A.K.A. 02Silverado Elite M.D's Avatar
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    I can pretty much remove all swirls from a vehicle. Now my truck isnt swirl free but my dads is. I just detailed it this weekend. Take a look at the pics below. If you are not getting them out with the Machine Glaze you have to step up to rubbing compound. I used to try to do a lot of passes with the Machine Glaze, but its not going to happen. You have to level the surface. 3Ms Perfect-It III system is THE BEST for doing this. Go to any body shop and I will bet that most have 3M Perfect-It III in the shop. You are going to have to use a wool pad and 3M Rubbing Coompund (part # 05933). Then wash the vehicle off with Dawn and then use the Machine Glaze (part #05937) with the Foam Polishing Pad (part #05725). With the Machine Glaze I have found it works best at 1700rpms with medium pressure and a few squirts of water on the pad. I then use Poorboys to finish it off.

    I guess my dads car isnt 100% swirl free but the condition it was in before to now I would say it looks damn good.

    Before:


    After:
    Elite Mobile Detailing - Formally SacMotorsports
    www.elitedetails.com

  9. #24

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    Thumbs up 02Silverado

    Your dad`s truck on doors at least looks like my girlfriend`s car right now(the car is red)............with a polishing pad i removed pretty much all of em on the hood, exept near ridges, as im careful there............the roof s causing my problems, as well as door panels.

    Could it work just the same if i went up a notch in pad ? I thought and was suggested to switch to a cutting/compounding pad(i use 3 M`s pads)............does a compounding pad with say the machine glaze leaves a glossy finish or rather sedate one ?

    best regards :beer

  10. #25
    I'm just a man.
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    A word of advice i`ve heard numerous times, and have come to repect and listen to is. Let the product do the work.... If anything i would try a harsher product on the same pad instead of moving to a harsher pad with the same product. PI III is a great line, but there are others out there that will achive a result that is just as good if not better. If you plan on sticking with the 3m i would go to there white foam cutting pad and the PI III extra cut. With that and 1500 there is nothing that won`t come out. Plus it will leave behind a finnish that will alow a quick clean up with the MG. Just go slow and be caucious.
    The Koop Is BIZZZAAAK

  11. #26
    Strange name, ain't it? NattyBumppo's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Koop
    A word of advice i`ve heard numerous times, and have come to repect and listen to is. Let the product do the work....
    Heard that a few times myself. Never really set in until Steve grabbed the rotary out of my hands and used SSR3 with an extra fine euro polishing pad with incredible results! THe combo of the compounds abrasives and the extra fine foam took care of the paint defect and left the finish in excellent shape. Thats what made me a believer in the "let the product do the work" mantra.
    Natty
    ------------------------------------------------
    "Sorry Miss, I just decided I don`t do mini-vans"

  12. #27
    I'm here! jgv's Avatar
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    It always sounded strange to me when people use a cutting pad with a SMR. It`s like it`s only acting a lubricant. With such product I always use a finishing or polishing pad, and the cutting pads is only to level an heavy scratched surface with a cutting compound.
    Portuguese details detalhe.net

 

 
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