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  1. #16
    Just One More Coat Beemerboy's Avatar
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    Well this thread got some action!!

    Anywho Millhouse here is my take on this once again. I have owrked on single stage paint allot. Doing it by hand will take some sweat but you can get the results that you are looking for.

    Start with the wash and dry
    I would pass on the AIO step and head for light cut compound, it will cut the oxdation. You may need to go over the area twice on the top of the car the sides will most likely take once to be OK.
    Work in small areas like a 2 x 2 foot area.
    The I would go to a good polish again working the same amount of area. Your towels should pickup a lot less paint this time threw. Next to get the swrail marks out use a swril remover you can get greatones threw this site. I like to glaze the car next but you can skip this step as you are working with a limited amount of cash.
    Last wax ro sealant I like wax but thats just me.
    Again working by hand is slow but the results are there just take you time and have a lot of water to drink
    Old Enough To Know Better, Too Stupid To Care....

    Dave`s Detailing
    Sonoma County, CA

  2. #17

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    The wax removal is for the trim, he said he has some old wax built up, with a brush it will remove it and whatever junk is on there.

    This can be done by hand, I have done it. Yes it is very hard, Natty has a good idea break the job up into more than one day. And yes your arms will be jacked when you finish, so if your car doesn`t get you laid your new biceps will.

    Poorboy has a great solution, $37 (plus shipping) should really make any impact on your car. If I was you I would put those waxes you have away for a while. But here is the great thing, buy some top-notch products, completely revitalize your car, then when someone asks who did it, say you and that you can easily do there car. You could make some good money this way while gaining more experience.

  3. #18
    millhouse's Avatar
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    I think you guys hit the nail on the head. The only time I tried to remove the oxidation with the polish I currently have, I`ve tried to tackle a whole panel at a time...and it sucked Not only that but I didnt notice very good results so I quit. I`ll definatley have to pick up some of the mentioned products and try to stretch it out over several days time. As for the workout that I`ll be getting, hell It`s cheaper than taking the car to a detailer...and I`ve been sitting on my ass way to much lately anyways.

    Btw, what is this ssr2 that has been mentioned? Will it work better for me than the AIO? Also, what brand of polish is going to work best for me?

  4. #19

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    SSR2 is a swirl removal product by Poorboy`s available from Premiumautocare.com, I haven`t used it but I would assume that it is more aggresive than AIO, which is good by hand, it should also help you with your swirls and scratches. Also the SSR2 will be cheaper than AIO. I would use a terry cloth to apply this, fold it into quarters.

  5. #20
    Founder Poorboy's World Poorboy's Avatar
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    I agree with Thomas too....terry is great for removing scratches and swirls by hand....it becomes part of the abrasive process and when the surface gets real smooth and shiny then switch to a microfiber towel for the last step...

    Yes SSR2 is agressive yet gentle with its diminishing abrasives...
    life is short ..do it while you can

    e-mail info@poorboysworld.com

  6. #21
    millhouse's Avatar
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    What brand it is (or does it even have one) and where can I buy it at?

  7. #22
    Founder Poorboy's World Poorboy's Avatar
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    They are Poorboy`s World products and all you have to do is click the premiumautocare banner at the bottom and go into the products and then order them...
    life is short ..do it while you can

    e-mail info@poorboysworld.com

  8. #23
    millhouse's Avatar
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    Thank you very much

  9. #24

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    I like to glaze the car next but you can skip this step as you are working with a limited amount of cash.
    Would a sealent have trouble adhearing to the paint with the glaze in between? I also like using 3M IHG in this instance, however I have been reticent in using it with a sealent product added as a topping, as opposed to a carbuna. Any thoughts?
    crobarcars@yahoo.com

  10. #25
    blkyukon's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Heff
    Without a rotary buffer(not an orbital), and some abrasive polish, you can not significantly improve the condition of your paint especially oxidation, you can only clean and apply waxes to it. Then once you have it painted, you should be able to take care of it yourself with a little advice and the right products.

    I also totally disagree

    Here is what I did by PC (speed 4.5) and by hand with:
    PB Pro Polish
    DACP (where needed)
    SSR1
    PwC (wiped on/hazed/removed for a little more depth)
    EX

    on a heavily oxidized 90 Miata

    Hood before (drivers side headlight and fender were repainted and are clearcoated)



    Hood after




    Before:





    After:




  11. #26
    I need more sugar!!!!!! KleanFreak's Avatar
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    thats some good stuff..looks great good job
    picture perfect auto detailing
    "we put the cherry back in your car"
    detailingisthegame@hotmail.com

  12. #27
    Rosso Scuderia's Avatar
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    Those are some great before and afters BlkYukon! Great job.
    "Aerodynamics are for people who don`t know how to build engines" - Enzo Ferrari

  13. #28

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    Great job on the miata! Can someone please tell me the names of these products.

    PB Pro Polish
    DACP (where needed)
    SSR1
    PwC (wiped on/hazed/removed for a little more depth)
    EX

    Sorry I`m new here and don`t know the abbreviations.

    I have a 93 mustang gt convertible with similar oxidation like the miata. Its a single stage paint vibrant red.

    I have the following products.
    Meg Dual Action
    Meg Swirl Mark remover
    Meg Polish #7
    Meg liquid carnuba wax (can`t remember the number i wanna say #24 or something)

    I have 3M show car wax and 3M polish

    What would you guys recommend far as step wise to bring back the paint like the miata. I`m thinking of getting the PC polisher you guys mentioned above (for sometime). But as far as hand will these products do what I want or will I get much better results with the PC? Would you recommend any products to use in place of what I already have? If so please help me, thanks!

  14. #29
    blkyukon's Avatar
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    Originally posted by vibred93vert
    Great job on the miata! Can someone please tell me the names of these products.

    PB Pro Polish
    DACP (where needed)
    SSR1
    PwC (wiped on/hazed/removed for a little more depth)
    EX

    Sorry I`m new here and don`t know the abbreviations.
    Thanks!

    PB Pro Polish · Poorboy`s Pro Polish
    DACP · Meguiars Dual Action Cleaner Polish
    SSR1 · Poorboy`s SSR1 Swirl Remover
    PwC · Poorboy`s Polish with Carnauba
    EX · Poorboy`s EX sealant w/carnauba

    I have a 93 mustang gt convertible with similar oxidation like the miata. Its a single stage paint vibrant red.

    I have the following products.
    Meg Dual Action
    Meg Swirl Mark remover
    Meg Polish #7
    Meg liquid carnuba wax (can`t remember the number i wanna say #24 or something)

    I have 3M show car wax and 3M polish

    What would you guys recommend far as step wise to bring back the paint like the miata. I`m thinking of getting the PC polisher you guys mentioned above (for sometime). But as far as hand will these products do what I want or will I get much better results with the PC? Would you recommend any products to use in place of what I already have? If so please help me, thanks!
    A PC will save you time but it can be done by hand, with the products you have. On the above Miata I did half a fender with the PC/half by hand and the results were pretty much equal, except for the time it took.

    Just remember to work the products until dry, using even pressure and use a back and forth motion.

    Good luck
    Charles

  15. #30

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    Any special applicators I should pick up for the polish?

 

 
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