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Thread: Faded Paint

  1. #1
    ShineTyme Detailing
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    Faded Paint

    Ok, today i decided to help out a friend who has a 66` red mustang. The single state paint was in very poor condition and was very oxidized and faded. I used DACP, SFP, #7, and #26. All by pc by the way (except the 7 and 26). OK, the DACP and SFP did make the paint alot more cleaner, didnt add a lot to the shine. THe # 7 (by hand) left a trail behind as if the car was soaking it up and i could not get an even look at all. The #26 (by hand) was even worse. I put it on, let it sit, and wiped it off and there where streaks everywhere. It was horrific. I could see everywhere that my hand went when i applied it I finally just went over the entire car with the the SFP and that made it a little better, there where still streaks on the entire car though. WHat the heck am i doing wrong? I cant seem to get the look that some of you have had on single stage red paint.

  2. #2

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    It sounds like you need to step up to a more abrasive product like #84 Compound Power Cleaner or Poorboys SSR3. the other option is to use the DACP with a rotary and a cutting pad or a wool pad.
    It`s what you learn after you know it all that counts ... John Wooden

  3. #3
    eggroll's Avatar
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    When working on single stage paint, you need to make sure the surface is oxidation free. If not, waxes and sealants will streak on you. You said that #7 was soaking into the paint, that should indicate oxidation is still there. I agree with Kim, you should use a more abrasive product.
    "A car doesn`t have to be the fastest or most powerful to be the love of your life" -Temperacerguy

  4. #4
    Strange name, ain't it? NattyBumppo's Avatar
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    I agree with Kim and Eggroll. If you have or can get Meg`s Light Cut Cleaner or Medium Cut Cleaner from their body shop professional line I would try them on a small section first. They excel when used on single stage paints, have larger abrasive particles but still break down (Meg`s diminishing abrasives). On single stage paints you can use them with the PC, or even by hand whereas on BC/CC finishes they really are a rotary only product. You will have to follow it up though with the Swirl Free Polish prior to your final finish wax coat.
    Natty
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    "Sorry Miss, I just decided I don`t do mini-vans"

  5. #5
    bigron62's Avatar
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    anybody remember a product called car skin. this stuff was killer . it chemically remove the oxidation and leave the surface ready to wax .this was back in the 70,s .
    back in buisness baby

  6. #6
    ShineTyme Detailing
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    Thanks for the quick responses, ill have to try some of the heaveir compounds from meguiars, ill give it a shot. It has actually cooled down a little here, 2 days ago it was about 90 degress three miles from the beach, what the heck is that all about. luckly its in the 70`s today, beautiful.

  7. #7

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    HBblazer,
    You aren`t getting any sympathy here.
    The 90 degree weather you are complaing about is 60 degrees warmer than it is here.
    Winter is really sucking this year!
    It`s what you learn after you know it all that counts ... John Wooden

  8. #8
    Owner and Tech. Rep Nickc0844's Avatar
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    Those are some great comments above, my additive would be to apply #7 with the PC. I get better results when doing so, and because you are able to work it in better, it makes for buffing off even easier (I use the terry towel first, then MF last buffing method).

    There are some threads with my Midnight Blue 65` Stang running around here if you would like to see some pictures. It has #7 all over it!
    Nick Carberry
    ~Detailing high-end cars with quality products~

 

 

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