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  1. #1
    The Man With The Plan Fleet's Avatar
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    Disappointed by PB`s SSRs

    I`ve been using the Poorboys products for over a month now. I am disappointed by the performance of the Swirl Removers. I have some microscratches on the rear bumper of my black Envoy, and I cannot get them out with SSR2 or SSR1. The first time I tried, I used SSR1 with a Polishing Pad followed by SSR2 with a Polishing Pad followed by SSR1 with a Polishing Pad. It didn`t work. 2 weeks later, I tried SSR2 with a Cutting Pad X 3 Followed by SSR1 with a Polishing Pad x 2. This past weekend I repeated that process. Those microscratches are still there. They are not deep enough to be felt with a fingernail. I also have this issue on a couple of spots on the hood and roof, but haven`t gone through the procedure there for fear of destroying the clearcoat.

    I`ve put a lot of effort into this with the SSRs, and have not had the results I want on the bumper. Perhaps these are the wrong products for microscratch removal.

    In all fairness, I feel that SSR1 does a great job of polishing the paint before sealing. There are no swirls, either. However, the SSRs are not touching the microscratches. Also, I am VERY impressed with EXP and EX sealants. They are incredible, really. I`ve never seen water bead in the rain like it does on my vehicles. EX and EXP get a big

    Anyways, since SSR2 and SSR1 are not removing the microscratches, what product should I try? I`d like to remove the microscratches, not fill them if possible. I have a PC and a good set of Lake Country Pads. I was thinking of trying SSR2.5, but after the failure of the SSRs, I don`t want to waste money on another swirl remover when I need a "scratch remover". Would DACP be appropriate? Maybe I should buy the 1Z Polishes? Vanilla Moose? Menzerna? Maybe I should fill them with a glaze?

    What do you experts recommend for removing the microscratches?

    Thanks a lot for your help!

  2. #2
    Adopt a shelter pet! JimS's Avatar
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    When an abrasive product doesn`t get rid of a scratch I`m trying to get rid of I go to a more abrasive product. In this case I`d go to SSR3 and then SSR1 and it might be time for a rotary.

    As for the other spots you mentioned you shouldn`t have any problems with going through the clear. If you`re not getting rid of minor scratches then there is little reason to think that you`ll cut through the clear coat. I`d think you can safely use 2.5 or 3 on all these spots and then bring back the shne with 1 or PP.
    Dream big and be willing to do the work to get there.

  3. #3
    Bob's Avatar
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    I use the SSR`s all the time and have not had this problem. It could be you need the SSR #3 or thatmaybe you are not working the products enough?

  4. #4
    jstn's Avatar
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    i know when using ssr2 that there is a big performance difference between speed 5 and speed 6 on the pc. what i do is work the product around on the paint a a slower speed and then i finish it off with 6 on the pc and most swilrs dissapear.
    Justin
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  5. #5
    Founder Poorboy's World Poorboy's Avatar
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    that is exactly why SSR2.5 was designed....sometimes what appears to be micro-scratching may actually deeper than you realize...Eric..(motorcitypoorboys) who is in your area just got his shipment of SSR2.5 and I`m sure would be glad to either meet you or give you a sample...
    life is short ..do it while you can

    e-mail info@poorboysworld.com

  6. #6
    Chadwick's Auto Detailing membim's Avatar
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    Remember that even the SSR2 is not THAT strong. It`s a polish to remove light swirls and burnish the surface for great reflection. It may be time to try SSR2.5 or even SSR3.

  7. #7
    The Man With The Plan Fleet's Avatar
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    Originally posted by jstn
    i know when using ssr2 that there is a big performance difference between speed 5 and speed 6 on the pc. what i do is work the product around on the paint a a slower speed and then i finish it off with 6 on the pc and most swilrs dissapear.

    Maybe that is my problem - I do not like to use the PC at a speed greater than 5. I use it at speed 4.5 and go over the area until all product is virtually gone. I also don`t apply much pressure on the paint.

    But, I still believe SSR2 is too weak to get out the scratches. And SSR2.5 is new and unproven, as well as being a Swirl Remover. Any other products I should be looking at? From reading at that other site, DACP is pretty popular.

    Thanks

  8. #8
    Bob's Avatar
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    How deep are these scratches? You may be looking for a miracle product that does not exist. Wet sanding might be your only option. If you are using 4.5 speed that is way too slow in my opinion. I use 6...and you shoudl not need to apply pressure to the PC.

  9. #9
    The Man With The Plan Fleet's Avatar
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    These scratches are not deep. I cannot feel them with my fingernail. I`m not looking for a miracle product, really. I`m looking for a good polish to remove these micro scratches. Maybe it is my technique, but I do not believe the PC is effective at speed 6. It really buzzes hard. And yes, I do have the right counterweight. I don`t believe the PC or the pads are made for that kind of use.

    What is the proper technique for using SSR2 by PC? If I`m doing it wrong, I`ll try it a Fourth time and then reseal yet again.

    I have a Porter Cable 7336 w/6" counterweight and 7.5" Lake Country Pads. I apply the Yellow Cutting Pad to the Velcro Backing Plate, and lightly spray with Poorboys S&W. It is not soaked by any means, just one spritz. Then I apply SSR2 in a circle around the pad. I smear the pad/SSR2 onto the painted surface to spread the product. I dial the PC to 4.5 and let it go. I move the PC vertically over the area, followed by horizontally. I repeat this "+" pattern until all product is virtually gone. Then, I wipe off the dusting/residue. Finally, I am disappointed the marks are still there. The area is about 1 square foot, and takes about 5 minutes. I follow up with SSR1 and a Polishing Pad with same technique.

    If I`m doing this wrong, please tell me! I`d rather not buy additional products, and I would like to use the proper technique!

    Thanks

  10. #10
    Founder Poorboy's World Poorboy's Avatar
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    your technique sounds fine...I prefer not to spritz the pads, but i really think the SSR2.5 is more of the answer rather than cranking up the pc if you are not comfortable doing so..talk to Eric and see if you can arrange a meeting with him or 2001civicex,( Danase Auto Detailing) ...I agree no need to buy more products until you see the results you want.
    life is short ..do it while you can

    e-mail info@poorboysworld.com

  11. #11
    My L5-S1 is killing me! wifehatescar's Avatar
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    I use speed 6 also. At least try speed 5.5, it does not buzz as much as 6.
    We can rebuild him. We have the capability to make the world’s first bionic man. Better than he was before. Better Stronger Faster

  12. #12

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    Wet sanding is not as difficult as it first appears. I tried it on an old International pickup that my neighbor has and it turned out really great (it`s the only part of the truck that looks good tho! - LOL).

    I used 1500 followed by 2000 and was amazed at how easily it did the job. I wouldn`t hesitate to try it again on something good.
    Cliff Claven is my hero
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  13. #13
    I'll figure it out....
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    These are some shots of the hood after the following:

    ssr2.5
    Menzerna FP
    PWC
    #16





    I applied some drops of the 2.5 to the hood, and then applied it
    at speed of about 3-3.5. Then I ramped up to 5-5.5 to work it until there was nothing left but liquid. I followed up with the FP, performing the same process to apply and then work in the product. Only reason I don`t try to run higher than 5.5, is that the pc has a nasty vibration that messes up my hands while I am trying to work.

    In the following image, you can see how bad the paint surface is to begin with. I am of the opinion that even If I could use a rotary, I would not be able to correct the deffects in the paint
    and it`s preperation. So 2.5 is not the end all to be all, but it is defintely an improvement over some of the other stuff I have tried with the pc


  14. #14
    The Man With The Plan Fleet's Avatar
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    1z?

    I`ve noticed there is very little talk here about 1z polishes. Is that just because the sponsors don`t sell 1z? On Autopia, 1z is pretty popular and they get very good reviews. Does anyone have experience with using the 1z polishes and then sealing with EX or EXP? Do I need to add a final layer of PP or SSR1 before using EX or EXP? I have a sample kit on the way from 1z. I don`t want to switch from EX or EXP - those are GREAT sealants.

    I figure I`ll give the 1z a try on the microscratches.

  15. #15
    My L5-S1 is killing me! wifehatescar's Avatar
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    IMO all these products (PB`s/1Z/Meg`s) are just abrasives in liquid. The brand mostly matters for ease of use, etc. Abrasive SIZE is what makes the difference between a scratch being taken out or not. If you have a small area of scratches, go over it with SSR 2.5 or 3 by hand. It will leave a haze. Then go over that with the PC and maybe SSR2. That`s what I do on spot areas with deeper defects.
    We can rebuild him. We have the capability to make the world’s first bionic man. Better than he was before. Better Stronger Faster

 

 
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