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  1. #1

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    Re: Restoring Black Trim (wet-sanding?)

    I have a 93 Ford Mustang GT Convertible with bad weathered black trim. Has the chalky whiteish look. I have tried 303 protectant and mothers back to black on it. I am not satisfied with either result. I am wondering if wet-sanding the black trim would bring back the orginal color. I have been told by autopia not to use and kind of wax on it. If you guys tell me wet-sanding will not work, I will be removing all the black pieces on my car and painting them with semi-gloss or flat black automotive spray paint. What do you guys think? Parts include: front windshield lower cover, crowl, mirrors, wiper blade arms, side door top moldings, rear trim, and spolier from luggage rack. I know that improving this part of the car will dramatically improve its looks. I want something permant and not a temporary fix that will have to be replied all the time. If it can be restore via wet-sanding what grid? 2000? 1500? Thanks

  2. #2
    Professional Rookie
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    My experience with severely degraded trim is that most dressings are just that, and the trim will eventually go south again.

    Forever Black has been helpful in cases like door handles. For large amounts of trim pieces with various textures, you will probably have the best results with painting.

    On many of these materials, you will probably wind up sanding to some degree anyway. We like SEM products. I`d recommend SEM Solve, or some semblance of a "Prepping" agent, Self-etching primer, Trim Black, Bumper Black, etc. Good rule of thumb is to FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. Don`t skip steps or rush. We`ve found that on metals, (wiper arms, chassis parts) primering the surface helps a great deal with adhesion and durability.

    Have you considered masking these parts rather than removing? I suppose there`s ups and downs for both cases. Anyway, good luck. Take pictures!!

    Regards,
    Mike R

    PS- Several years ago, I was in Dallas, in Deep Ellum (sp?) and don`t remember much after that.
    Mike R.
    "Get That Great New Car Feeling"

  3. #3

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    have you thought about vinyl paint?? I`ve been meaning to use it - I used Forever Black on the plastic side window bit and its all stuffed now ... didnt hold at all - its meant for rubber I guess. Might sand it down well, then use some vinyl paint (it`ll have the flex agents...to me thatd be more durable than just paint)

  4. #4

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    Thanks for the ideas guys. Guess no one knows about the wet-sanding? stainbuster I think i want to remove them so I can get full coverage and don`t have to worry about masking the whole car for overspray. Deep Ellum is a fun place!! Where do you live now? Its a shame I don`t have anyone to help me thats knowledgeable. I will need some extra hands and advice. I`m nervous I`m gonna screw it up lol. I will try to take some pictures for everyone to see.

    Aheyn- yes I am going to use a paint with a flew agent. I think I`m gonna hit up English Color when I get back down to Dallas tomorrow (at Oklahoma State right now) and see what they recommend. Since they are a body shop supplier. I`m also gonna be restoring my single stage paint job from oxidation. Car sat in storeage for about 6 months, had some body work done about 3 months ago (I don`t suggest you have anything heavy or metal on shelves above or anywhere near your car!) so I just haven`t used any DACP, #9, #7, or #26 on the car in awhile and it looks pretty bad. I`m gonna be doing this all by hand. I might even break out the 3M Perfect-It Fine cut rubbing compound. If it looks good on the trunk I might just do the whole car. If I do use the rubbing compound should I hit it up with DACP or #9 next? I`m kind of nervous about using the rubbing compound on the whole car, 3M says its for medium oxidation. Well I would say that I have medium oxidation on the sides and rear and swirls on the hood. (damn tow truck). I saw a post on here for a 91 trooper that was red single stage, the guy used rubbing compound fine cut and it came out amazing! but had worse oxidation. Wish me luck I have a weekend full of work!!

  5. #5

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    Just looked at the weather report Isolated Sat.= 76 deg high 62 low T-Storms / Wind 30% chance of rain
    Sunday= 74 high 48 low Isolated T-Storms 30% chance of rain
    That sucks! If its nasty out I won`t be repainting the trim. If I get the chance to get the car washed I will detail it in the garage, hopefully. Parents are in middle of moving and I haven`t seen the garage in a month or so. I should have the room though. Hoping for good weather!

  6. #6
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    Vibered,

    About the wet-sanding. If you think there is "good" rubber or plastic under the faded trim, simply take some 1500 or 2000 grit to it. If that doesn`t work, at least the surfaces is sanded and prepped for your paint! Only one way to find out.

    I now live in SW Florida, still have lots of family and friends all over TX.

    Regards,
    Mike R.
    "Get That Great New Car Feeling"

  7. #7
    Adopt a shelter pet! JimS's Avatar
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    Go to www.poorboysworld.com get Steve`s phone number and call him up. In addition to manufacturing the best line of products I`ve seen, including Trim Restorer, he has many years experience owning and running a body shop and detailing business. He`ll be able to advise you on the sanding and also explain how his procuts may work for you.

    Don`t expect the black trim to stay nice. I think you may have to be satisfied with finding a product that makes it black and then applying that product frequently.

    I don`t think sanding is going to work and I think that sanding black trim may ruin it so don`t do that unti you`ve talked to an expert.
    Dream big and be willing to do the work to get there.

  8. #8

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    A friend of mine had this same problm with the plastic louvers on the hood of his 88 Camaro IROC Z. What he ended up doing was using 3m 2000 grit sand paper soaked in distilled water and gave them a light wet sanding. Then he used rubbing compound to smooth it out some more. and then he gave it a good coat of black (original color) vinyl paint and and a light coat of clear this give it gloss. It really made a difference. He said the key (in his case) was the high grit paper and very light sanding.

    hope that helps
    Duane...

    If you think you`re confused, imagine how you feel.

  9. #9

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    Hey Vibred, I`m new to the forum but not to detailing. dealt with many oxididated cars with no clear. I have used Collinite Color up pre-cleaner wax. It`s Collinites No. 840 Sapphire. It can be hard to find but they have w web site that can help find a dist. I`ve had owners impressed over the change even a long time body man with his own shop. He kind of challanged me and I impressed. Any way give it a shot will love the results on the paint. Though I don`t know about the trim besides repaint. Let me know if anyone have any questions.

  10. #10
    Phil's Avatar
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    Im really not too good at this subject...
    I just did an auction car (Stolen, and sold by the policia here in PA), a 92 blazer from texas. Its now living here in PA ready to sell. Im assuming the Texas sun tarnished the bumpers, but IT WAS BAD!
    First I tried dressings, LITERALLY no results, then shoe polish (a quick fix) it still looked terrable! Ive never tried forever black, but Ive heard its almost like a stain.
    Spray paint was my next option, but that crosses the body guy/detailer line in my opinion

 

 

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